What is gorge on a suit

There are two things to think about in relation to lapel gorge. One, what suits your body? And two, what are the ways that exploiting different lapel gorge shapes can impact upon the aesthetic portrayed. Consider the two peaked lapels below. Both lapels are peaked, and both are 4. The first is from my blue flannel lounge suit. This lapel, although larger than many of the lapels found on most off-the-peg suits, is cut in a relatively modern style.

Furthermore, this jacket has been cut with a high gorge — 2. The amount of chest a coat features has a tremendous affect on how heavy your torso appears. There is a tendency amongst Savile Row tailors to put a vast amount of chest into their jackets, to make the wearer appear more virile and 'Atlas-like'.

But too much chest can also be a touch vulgar, and can even overwhelm the torso in the same way that a massive Jane Mansfield-style, twin barrelled, torpedo shaped brassiere can overwhelm an angora sweater. This is particularly true if you already have a well-developed chest, in which case you should take a page from Cifonelli's book: the Parisian tailor cuts a narrower chest, which creates an overall sleeker and more slimming jacket.

The chest pocket is a practical repository for items like reading classes or a Behike 54 to sooth your nerves after conversations with your mother.

It also offers wonderful self-expressive possibilities when a pocket-handkerchief is staged within. In a bespoke coat the position of your gorge should also dictate the position of your breast pocket: the higher the gorge, the higher the pocket.

A jacket with a high gorge and a traditionally placed chest pocket looks as if these two elements got into a fight and have retreated to opposite ends of a room and aren't speaking. Part IV will be available soon, part II is available to read here. Part I can be found here , and the Introduction to the series here. Home Style. Manipulating The Belly Just as important as the width of a lapel is how much 'belly' it has - the belly being the amount of substance and curvature evinced as it tapers toward the button closure.

Have Gorges Gone Too High? This will elongate the lapels, thus making you look slightly taller all things being equal. Luca Rubinacci, pictured above, is wearing such a jacket. This will add weight to you frame and widen the look of the coat.

Not a flattering look for most men, but potentially advantageous for some. Of course, body proportions aside, it can also be enjoyable to dabble in trends. Just be careful not to veer into the extremes. I pity men who bought jackets last year with razor thin lapels, only to find that they can no longer wear them today. As always, balance and moderation are key, so beware of the overly high gorge.